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Estonia Beyond Tallinn’s Old Town

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - What waits for you outside of the medieval center

There’s no denying how adorable Tallinn’s perfectly preserved Old Town is. An outstanding example of medieval architecture, a crowned UNESCO World Heritage gem, the city really does feel a bit like a place plucked out of the world of Harry Potter (as long as you go wandering before the cruise ship tour groups come marching in).

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Old Town

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Old Town Square

There are definitely several things you should do in the Old Town. Get dizzy walking up St. Olaf’s tower for stunning views of the city. Have a decadent hot chocolates at Chocolat du Pierre’s Josephine Café. And there’s not one, but TWO, medieval restaurants where you can drink honey beer or try to eat elk stew without a spoon.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Josephine Cafe
I cringed to pay 4.5 Euros for this hot chocolate, but it ranks as one of the best I’ve had ever. Also I witnessed a undramatic fender bender as I sat outside drinking it. So a worthwhile investment in the end. Found via Spotted by Locals!

But there’s more to the ‘medieval pearl of Europe’ than its charming Old Town. And this is a crucial reason why I advocate for more than just the breeze-through of Tallinn. If you only come on a day trip from Helsinki or stop for a night on your way through the Baltics, you’re going to miss the nuances of this vibrant city. Here are just a few of the things you can do beyond Tallinn’s Old Town.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Outside the Walls
Seriously, get outside these walls. Even if just to take some pretty pictures of being ‘outside the walls.’

Recall Soviet History

When you’re neighbors with one of the largest empires in the world, chances are they’ll leave their legacy at some point or the other. I tend to be more enchanted with Russia’s pre-revolutionary drama than its more modern history, but I do have this odd fascination with Soviet monuments. I never really considered them until I saw some in Bulgaria and Romania. There are some of the most unique structures I’ve ever seen, awe-inspiring by their size alone, usually.

There’s a Soviet monument within walking distance from Tallinn city center (or you can take the bus). It’s not especially intricate. But it is tall.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Soviet Monument
This is how I imagine the conversations went between the Soviet bureaucrat and the architect. Soviet bureaucrat: We want you to build a memorial to [Communism/Lenin/the people]. Build it as big as you can! Architect: Can do. What do you want it to look like? Soviet bureaucrat: … And build it as big as you can!
Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Olympic Village
One Soviet remnant I would not recommend trekking out for is the old Olympic Village. It’s been converted into a hotel/spa and it has all the charm of an unfinished concrete cruise ship.

There’s also a bit of Soviet aviation history. I went on a day tour that stopped at a small Soviet pilot cemetery, hidden from the road by a line of trees. The grave markers were made from pieces of Soviet planes. Someone had recently come by and left candy and candles by the graves.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Soviet Pilot CemeteryExploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Soviet Pilot Grave

And if you want to see an actual Soviet plane, you can find one on a grassy field on the outskirts of town, guarded by a grumpy old man who looks like he might actually know how to fly it. I spent half a second looking down in the grass and accidentally found a bullet and instantly became the envy of everyone in my tour group. It seemed like a really unique souvenir until I realized it was a live round of ammunition and that wasn’t really something I wanted to carry around in my suitcase.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Soviet Airplane

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Soviet Plane
Keeping it in working order?

Drink Craft Brews with Hipsters

Tallinn’s newest blossoming neighborhood is Kalamaja, just outside the Old City. The people have taken over old Soviet industrial buildings and transformed them into the Telliskivi Creative City, full of cafes, eateries, and art. I went to Püdel to enjoy a delicious craft beer and some people watching.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Pudel Board 1
Can’t decide what to drink? Step 1…
Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Pudel Board 2
Step 2! Decision made!

I didn’t have time to check out the Balti Jaam train station flea market to scour the vendors for Soviet-era memorabilia. I’ll have to do it next time, in between sampling all the restaurants I am still aching to try.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Kalamaja

Climb Around a 13th Century Monastery

“You could never do this in the US,” I kept saying as we climbed on the crumbled walls of a medieval monastery. There were no safety guardrails or barriers. You could climb through the maze as you pleased, descending into pitch-black basement rooms, teetering on two by four planks.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Monastery

It’s nice to take a break from the over-cautious US sometimes. Just, you know, watch your step.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Monastery Outdoors
30 foot drop? No need for a guard rail!

Pretend You’re in a Sci-Fi Movie

Another leftover of Soviet times is the Rummu Prison. Abandoned, graffiti-ed, and partially flooded, it looks like something from a post-apocalyptic movie.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Rummu

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Jumping from Rummu
You’re not supposed to swim around the prison. You’re not supposed to jump out of the third floor window.

No prison is complete without some sort of labor requirement, so an impressive, Mars-looking quarry rises up next to the river. You can climb up to the top. I just wouldn’t recommend running on the way down.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Rummu Quarry
This deserves theme song music.

Enjoy Estonia’s Natural Beauty

I didn’t even get to Estonia’s lauded Lahemaa National Park, but the brief scenic stops we made on our day trip outside of Tallinn impressed me. We waded across the top of the third biggest waterfall in Estonia. We picnicked on cliffs, watching the fog roll in until we were suddenly engulfed in it. We skipped stones at the beach and discussed why exactly those stones were bleached white.

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Keila Waterfall

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Lighthouse Cliff

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Beach

And for a relaxing retreat inside the city limits, you can walk (or take the bus) over to Kadriorg Park. You can wander around one of Peter the Great’s palace, find your inner calm at the Japanese garden, or linger around the Presidential Palace in hopes of meeting the Estonian president (seriously, who doesn’t want to meet Toomas Hendrik Ilves?).

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Peter's Palace

Exploring Estonia Beyond Tallinn's Old Town - Kadriorg Park

There are some places that just hit your heart the right way. Even now, six months later, whenever someone posts a picture or a blog about Tallinn, I feel a twinge of regret that I’m not still there. Tallinn was one of my favorite new cities of 2015, not just for its medieval charm but for its whole complex, dynamic character that extends well beyond Tallinn’s Old Town. It’s a perfect destination for solo female travellers or anyone who’s looking for a slightly offbeat European destination – but don’t just breeze through! Come to Tallinn and stay a few days. There’s more to explore here than ye olde medieval times.

Interested in reading more about Tallinn? Here’s what other bloggers have to say!

Instagramming My Way Around Finland & Estonia by Matt at LandLopers

31 Photos Guaranteed to Make You Want to Visit Tallinn by Vicky at VickyFlipFlopTravels

Tallinn is a Baltic Fairytale by Miriam at AdventurousMiriam

A Guide To Tallinn Restaurants by Anders Husa on AndersHusa

6 Reasons Why Tallinn Is Perfect For Your Next European Adventure here at The Wayfarer’s Book

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